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Thanks, Robin. I'll take a look at my wires again. Would surprise me if I got it wrong again. As for the pulley, that 10mm delta is just about what I'm seeing so yes, that makes me feel a bit better. Thanks!

I'm not sure where you mean? Thanks!

The pump is held on with two studs and one long circa 3” bolt. This bolt can be a hassle and a long stud alleviates this problem. Given the problem you experienced your pulley may no longer be readily removable, so the stud might help

Ah, I understand. Good idea. I'll look into that. Thanks!

Thanks, Matthew. We'll see how it works out, but definitely rough going right now.

Hey, Barry. I did NOT line up with the crank pulley. Huge concern. But, I'm going to delay stressing about it until a "future me" time. We'll see what happens. But, if I have to roll this all back and go with the stock arrangement, I will. Won't be happy about it, but I will. Cheers!

Thanks, Alan. I only wanted to worry about the driver's side, in this case, since some reviews I read were that, without the convex mirror, it was worthless on the passenger's side.

Thanks, Alan. My crank pulley does have the rubber balancer. The conversion for the water pump, though, continues to be painful. I think I'm there, but I have my concerns still. I did not have that insulation stuff on my timing chain cover (nor on my Spitfire). There are some pics in the workshop manual that show it. I always assumed it was a chain noise abatement, but it seems a bit silly given all the other noises that were there. The heater valve is really simple. If you rubber diaphragm is in good enough shape, you can clean it up and rebuild the thing. But, you can't get pieces/parts, so sometimes you just have to get a new one. Thanks for watching and your comment!

@roundtailrestoration HI again Chris... I hope you get the water pump sorted out. BTW, new or rebuilt, it isn't uncommon for them to leak a little at first. I think the seals just need some time to seat themselves properly. It's only a concern if the leak doesn't stop after a little run time.

@@alanm.4298 I got as good as I could on the water pump yesterday (video out soon). Still not totally happy with it, but we'll see once it actually gets running. Thanks for the tip on the water pump!

I haven't gotten that far yet for the TR4. I took it all apart, but not internal to the actual lever itself. Sorry, but I'm not sure. However, here is a shot of the internals...might this help? rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID200476

I don't remember a whole lot of problems with it except for cracking it once, then having to do it again. Got too aggressive with trying to make a curve. Lots of lubrication and taking it slow. If you can do it in the hot sun, to warm that plastic up, you're probably better off. Otherwise, I just started with the break in the top/center and made my way around. Been a while, but I don't remember it being too horrible. Good luck!

Good luck. Like I think I mentioned in the video, depending on how your door gaps are, you may or may not have enough room. I do on both sides (more so on passengers) so my guess is you will, but you might be taking a chance. Good luck!

Good deal! Thanks for watching from Chile!

Thanks. It is a pretty good look and in keeping with the period, I think. Thanks for watching!

That's awesome! Hard to believe I'll be at 10 years this summer...seems like I just started driving her. Thanks for watching!

No problem enjoy watching your channel us Triumph guys have to stick together Kev UK🇬🇧👍

Got that right!

Yeah, pretty slick. For what it is, I'm really happy with the quality, too. We'll see how it holds up, but hell, for $25, worth buying one just to try it out.

Yeah, the wing windows would not work with where I have mine, I don't think. I had a lot more room on the passenger's side than the driver's side. So, as long as your gap is good, should work out. I might put something on the underside because the set screws right now just screw right into the door. But, putting rubber or something there may allow it to move around. Play with it, I guess.

Thank you! We'll see how it holds up, but it's definitely a better alternative, to me, than drilling holes, that's for sure.

Thanks. I just looked at that kit. I'm not afraid to say that the price is a bit steep. I'm not sure it would be worth it for me, but definitely something to consider. Thanks for watching!

Thanks, Mike. Yes, I did swap the gear around and aligned it all with #1 plug per the workshop manual. I did mean 1-3-4-2 but I bet I wired it up wrong now that I think about it. Be checking that! Thanks for the email, too. Yes, sick of rust repair is why I went to the motor and soon be shifting to the chassis. Definitely no fun, but I do find it rewarding after a time. Thanks for watching!

OK I guess if you have changed the distributor drive you are at TDC on the Exhaust stroke, not the compression stroke, at 10:55 as the rotor arm is pointing away from #1 spark plug. It will all come good when you do the actual timing.

Thanks, Mike. I did re-wire the cap as that was wrong and re-verified the dizzy. I had rotated the motor a few times and just edited that all out, so it was all good to go. Thanks for the backup!

Thank you! It's the first Sunday in June every year.

Thanks. The zinc plating itself is okay, it's the black oxide. It looks really nice at first, but as it dries, it develops a white, chalky appearance. Some of it will rub off, but most of it won't. I really haven't played around with trying to fix it too much yet, tho, so I shouldn't complain yet.

A shame you can't find the original quality stuff. I'd be willing to pay more, but sadly I don't think most people would - hence, no market for that stuff. Thanks, Bill!

@@roundtailrestoration I agree

One of the reasons I replaced with a Mallory dual point ignition... but now I see they're discontinued (since Holley bought Mallory?) and parts for them may become harder to find!

I briefly considered that, but following a professional rebuild of it, I didn't want to take any chances with screwing something up. Thanks for watching!

Triumph engines are pretty hardy, but many of the externals are made of old cheese.

Ha! Definitely seems that way at times.

I hope you're right, Barry. We'll see!

Thank you! I got the Goodridge brake lines from you guys during a sale. Totally changed the pedal feel.

Ha! I don't ever expect to get them all, that's for sure. At least is not a constant drip! Thanks for watching!

@@roundtailrestoration thank you for sharing. Your videos are excellent and simplfy things for a novice like me 😊

Thank you very much! I'm a novice as well...first restoration. Fun, exhilarating, and terrifying all at the same time!

@@roundtailrestoration Wow! Your first?! You look like a pro! Amazing job, really! Well done and much respect.

Thank you!

I don't have any video links, but when I re-did my Spitfire's speedo I used this document: obswww.unige.ch/~wildif/cars/docs/Smith-jaeger_speedo_repair.pdf It's pretty good and goes into the different styles. You can probably find a video, but I don't have any to recommend. Good luck!

@@roundtailrestoration thank you very much!

We'll see how it goes on my TR4 engine when it gets to that point. I'm using Permatex all around this time, so hopefully that will help. Thanks for watching!

Yes, I'm really looking forward to that, Robin. Especially with the overdrive!

Thanks! I don't know how you folks drive on the wrong side. But, regardless, get out and drive her!

@@roundtailrestoration 😂🤣

Thanks, Steve. Arya will be beautiful as well!

Thanks, Robert. I was very happy with how the motor performed. It was a beautiful day!

Thank you!

Thanks, Eric. Yeah, that Mk3 was nice. Just listening to people walk by, I definitely think the red was the key. Really happy with how she pulled over the bridge. Nice and smooth with no stuttering. That rear diff, though...

No. And as far as I know, it never did. There were not cutouts in the vinyl windscreen surround so I assume they were never fitted.

Thank you very much!

I did! Thanks!

You make a very good point. It's well taken. I'll take action on that. Thank you for watching and your well wishes (and plating is still kicking my butt)!

I've updated the thumbnail and title. I left the description because it stated that I was having issues. Thank you for your feedback. I detest click-bait and this was not an attempt at that. I still don't know why I'm not doing so hot at the plating (still), so I couldn't answer that question then or now. But, again, your point was well-taken and appreciated.

I thought it was the starter motor at first. Research led to the possibility of the vvt. Since that was a lot cheaper and easier, I did that first. Lucky, but I'd probably do the same again.

@@roundtailrestoration what do you think about the TRQ Variable Valve Timing Solenoid? It's being sold on Amazon for about $49.

I don't know. I got mine from Rock Auto if I remember correctly and it was OEM. But, I've bought other parts from Amazon and haven't had any issues with any of them.

And hell, with Amazon's return policy, you might be able to try it and if it doesn't fix it, return it.

You're welcome! Glad it helped.

Thanks for watching!

Question ; are spitfire windshields interchangeable? I got a project car and the windshield was in the trunk. I got the rubber tried to install it and it seems like its not curved enough to fit . Any advice ?

I believe the early cars (Mk1-2-3) are all the same windscreen, but after that they are different. But, when I was putting mine in, it didn't seemed curved enough, either, but it went in. It did not fit flush against the frame when I set it there to check. I did a video on it, for what it's worth. ruclips.net/video/DIP_8dmy1Kg/видео.html

I got it in sort of. Like the seal is a hair too thick . The top part is barely stretching over the glass. The chrome strip groove is pinched together. What can I do ? Maybe pull off the seal and use windshield glue. Center it and glue it in like new cars ,???

@@chrismarusic4277 It may be worth trying a different seal, from a different parts house, much as I hate to say that. Where did you get the one you're using now? I don't think a modern glue job will work. Not designed that way and I doubt you will get a seal, let along the vibration will probably eventually crack the glass.

Hey, Trevor. There is not as much gloss because you aren't putting a clear coat on it. So, the bling isn't there. But, as far as the shade, I'm very happy and didn't notice any difference. But, I'm sure it's important you get the tintable stuff

Hi John. Thanks for watching. I was lucky enough to route the cable with the body off, which made it very easy. However, it can be done with the body on, it's just not that intuitive. Here's a link to a PDF that has the process: docs.google.com/viewerng/viewer?url=www.triumphexp.com/phile/8/190533/E._Brake_cable_routing.pdf. Hope this helps! As far a removing the old one, if you cannot do it the same, but reverse way, I'd probably just cut it. That's up to you, tho.

@@roundtailrestoration Thanks, Chris! After I left my comment I went out to the garage and intuited my way exactly as described in the PDF, only to return here and find I had done it the "right" way. I appreciate the validation and the detail. Thanks! PS: Yeah, I remember your comment in the vid about how it had been nice to do the handbrake with the body off! My hands are tired after that one. But done! Thanks again. JD

I would try Rimmer Brothers in the UK. I believe they ship all over the world.

As far as I know, many of the internal parts are no longer available, especially the big main gear. Electrically, it's pretty straightforward. I don't think you'll have any issues there. Good luck!

@@roundtailrestoration thank you mate! I am a devoted subscriber of your videos 😊

Thank you. If you have any problems or questions, don't hesitate to reach out.

@@roundtailrestoration Thank you Chris - most appreciated!

Never quite been able to figure out the point of 5.1. Still eats paint. Guess better less likely to boil?

Thank you and thanks for watching!

Some part always kicks my butt. Unscripted performance!

And that's why we all tune in! It was a great video. I just have to laugh because I can see myself doing the exact same thing if I was recording.

lol, thanks Eric!

Thank you and thanks for watching!

Thanks, Charles. I didn't know that about the small bubbles. I'll do a re-bleed after a hundred miles or so. Thanks for watching!